As a dapper woman, I always feel my best in a crisp button-down. Check out my closet and you’ll see that I have more of them than slacks and cardigans combined; I’m determined to have them in every color and pattern imaginable!
Most of my button-downs come from the men’s section, so they’re not made for busts like mine. In the past, that meant crossing my fingers every time I tried on a new shirt, thinking, “Please, please, please, let it close over my chest!” But luckily, with a few years’ practice and perseverance, I’ve learned some helpful tips. Let me drop some knowledge on ya!
If at first you don’t succeed, try a different brand
Me looking awesome in Kirrin Finch / Photo by Iqra Shahbaz
When I was first coming into myself and my personal style, I tried everything from the women’s section, men’s section, and even the boy’s section (where I got a few looks from concerned moms). Through trial and error, I figured out which brands work for me and which don’t; off-the-rack names that give me minimal to no bust-area issues include Uniqlo, American Eagle, Penguin, Old Navy, Calvin Klein, Scotch and Soda, and Bonobos. And of course, I have to shout out to Kirrin Finch and Peau De Loup, both of whom make menswear-inspired button ups specifically to fit women.
In my experience, American clothing tends to run larger (especially in the armholes and shoulders), whereas European cuts (like at Scotch and Soda) or Japanese cuts (like at Uniqlo) tend to run slimmer or narrower. Personally, I prefer Japanese or European cuts for long sleeve button ups and Japanese or American cuts for short sleeve button ups. It just all depends on which cuts work best for you — and since personal style is a journey like anything else, you should try, try, try before you buy!
You deserve a good bra or binder
I always get a flatter silhouette by wearing sports bras and compression tanks / Photo via the author
The right bra or binder can help redistribute/reduce the look of your breasts under a tailored shirt. Minimizer bras, which are designed to redistribute breast tissue and take an inch or more off of your bust, are one option. Personally, I found that even those accentuated my boobs too much for my comfort, so I wear a sports bra that offers compression and flattens out my silhouette. Finally, folks who want to more drastically minimize the appearance of breasts should try a binder! Many of my gender non-conforming and trans friends swear by gc2b and Underworks to keep their breasts out of sight and out of mind. Always do your research on binders before using them, and make sure you use them safely!
Double-stick tape is your friend
Performing surgery on these gaping holes / Photo via the author
Have you ever tried on a shirt that fit perfectly… except for a gaping hole between the buttons around your chest? I have, and it sucks! For situations like this, invest in some double-stick tape; all you have to do is put your shirt on, apply the tape to the gaping area in between buttons, press down, and voilà! It should keep that area shut.
Photo via the author
One downside I’ve found to the tape is that it can come undone on softer or stretchier fabrics; for a stronger, more permanent alternative, try sticky back Velcro. And of course, the tighter your shirt is, the harder it will be for either option to hold it together — so try to use it on shirts that fit well otherwise.
Okay, that’s it! If you have any tips of your own, leave them in the comments.
This article speaks to me on so many levels. Thank you so much
Absolutely!
a safety pin between the gaping buttons never goes amiss, and if you’re a bit handy, you can buy a size up and tailor the side seams for a slimmer fit through the waist.
Thanks for this tip!
I have a lot of shirts that have a safety pin that lives on the hem, so if I need it, it is already there !!
You definitely look awesome in that first photo! I never even knew binding was A Thing until I saw it recently on here.
Now, I am depressed because Backwater UK is not the place to find anything remotely useful in this area, international shipping is pretty much out of my price range and I don’t fancy getting whacked with extra customs charges either :-(
I tried out two DapperBoi shirts, and they have a roomy torso PLUS two little hidden snaps to help keep the shirt closed. Work great!
Thanks for this tip! I gotta check them out!
I would like to nominate bralettes for this list because they have upped my button-down wearability and the frequency in which I wear them; also they’re super comfortable!
What brands work best for you?
I just realized my mom had to taught me how to pin the gap in like, middle school. Thanks for these giant breasts, mom! They’re serving me so much better now that I only wear stretchy fabrics.
! this is cool
Thanks!
You can also sew snaps to the space(s) between buttons that tend to gap. I did this to a shirt that fits in the sleeves and is kind of tight across the shoulders and chest (I liked the pattern a lot and they didn’t have it a size larger)…and it’s still small at the shoulders, but it doesn’t gap! Since I only sewed the snaps to the inner layer fabric on the button placket, the snaps don’t show from the outside.
Great tip!
I second this
You should /always/ get your flannel from Duluth Trading Company. They make three weights, in a variety of colors. All are reinforced across the back and shoulders for people with breasts who like to do things. I am a skinny-ish 34/DDD with a long-ass torso and a medium (large to XL in most brands) fits me with room across the chest and down the trunk. Some varieties include a nifty little hidden extra button across the bust that prevents gapping when you use your arms. All shirts include a little microfiber eyeglass cloth hidden under the front of the button placket (useful if you are bespectacled, like me). It’s about $50 a pop, but they are so unbelievably worth it and are well made.
Thanks for this suggestion! My partner buys from Duluth, but I’ve never looked for myself.
Maybe my dream of becoming a button shirt Lesbian is finally in reach!
May “The Gap” never stand in between me and that dream again!
Bless you for going through so much frustration to accumulate this knowledge so the rest of us don’t have to. You are a saint.
I put in a vote for American Rag as an option to try. I have a pretty big bust, and wear their shirts to work all the time, and they’re only $30 a shirt from Macy’s. And yea, I use a safety pin from the inside, through just one layer of the button strip to solve the gaping button problem.
what if you don’t want to tuck your shirt in?
Besides having issues finding a shirt that fits both my boobs AND my shoulders correctly, when I do find that miraculous piece of clothing, it looks like a dress. I always have to tuck in. No casual shirt wearing for me.
Any tips?
No tips but I have similar shoulder issues. I think it’s cheaper to tailor clothes a size down than it is to add fabric thoug.
Hey Mariana,
I’m not sure if this answers your question but are the shirts you are trying on meant to be dressy or casual? I find that it’s difficult to wear a dressy shirt casually as the shirt is longer at the bottom and the button placement forces you to tuck the shirt in.
Oh my gosh! The tiny sheeps on Peau De Loup are charming!
I second everything the article says. I would also recommend the following brands: Theory, Ted Baker, Hugo Boss (regular fit), John Varvatos and Bugatchi. Most of these are a little pricey $50-250 (depending on where you buy). I personally love to shop at Nordstrom Rack–great deals for good quality clothes. All of these fit the bust pretty well, are easy to tuck and look great.
I swear by Nordstrom Rack!!!
I like the article, but I quite like being busty. I just wish there were shirts we could wear without hiding our big boobies. You know, still androgynous, without hiding anything with a bra. I couldn’t wear a binder either.
Henleys and polo shirts?
Definitely! No need to hide the boobies if you don’t want to. These are just tips and strategies to help with common issues with button downs.
Maybe if you want have a look at these shops? I am quite busty too, and am thrilled to have recently discovered that these work for me with no gap.
http://www.tradlands.com
http://www.genderfreeworld.com
http://www.kirrinfinch.com (This one is mentioned above, but just to add to that–their shirts have an extra hidden button to prevent gaping.)
I bought my first binders because of this article (gc2b) and it was the best thing I’ve done for myself in a very long time. Sport bras always give me headaches and I thought binders were only for trans folk but I got the confidence a month ago and it’s amazing for my confidence.
Thank you!